Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.
It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with plump mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed people hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from four hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Around the World
To date, the grower's plot is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and over 3,000 vines with views of and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Vineyards help urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve open space from development by establishing long-term, yielding agricultural units within cities," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, community, environment and heritage of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he comments, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Activities Across the City
The other members of the collective are also taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the smell of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she says, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she says. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."
Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty vines perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is picking clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but really it's reviving an old way of making wine."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole challenge encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a fence on